IBRG, Cyprus, Famagusta, TRNC

Cybex-24 was mentioned as Cyprus bufferzone expedition in 2024. However twice was asked for permission to enter the bufferzone, we were not allowed.
Cybex-24 went to be the Cyprus border expedition.

Please read more and find out all about what, where we went, saw and did.

Cyprus just is a marvelous isle with a history of thousend+ of years, going back even BC

But it was for many years accupied, by Assyriens, Egyptians and Persians.
Since 286 Cyprus became part of the East Roman Empire (Byzantine Empire). At about 1473 the Isle became under power of Venice. In those years the walls of Nicosia were build.

In 1539 the Ottomans destroyed Limassol and so fearing the worst, the Venetians fortified Famagusta and Kyrenia.
Lot of things happened during the years untill the British take over the isle in 1878.

Before 1960, under British occupation the population on the isle was 77% Greek - and 18% Turkisch Cypriotic.

About 1960 independance for Cyprus was granted in Zürich and London agreements. Officially it was on 16 august 1960!

UK retained the two Sovereign base areas of Akrotiri and Dhekelia, which are still (2024) UK entity, controlled by SBA police and SBA customs [and IBRG did experience that: keep reading!

Since 1964 (allready 60 years) Unitied Nations is controlling some areas on Cyprus.
Around 1963 there was some struggle and even in 1964 UN started the so called Green line (Bufferzone) previously in Nicosia.

In 1974 it all escolated while the Greek and the Turks began a military fight.
Since than 4 entitys rules over theit borders and that is what we sa at the IBRG expedition Cybex-2024.

The mentioned entityties are:
- Greek Cyprus (the Republic of Cyprus)

- Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus

- UN Bufferzone

- Souvereign base area (SBA) (UK)


IBRG did see all of these, explored the borders, found bordermarkers.

Expedition's Dashboard CYBEX-24

Nicosia 1 (incl. 'the yellow car')

Nicosia 2

Nicosia 3 (Ledra street/Lokmaci crossing)

Nicosia 4

Nicosia 5 (the blue tractor)

Nicosia 6

Nicosia 7

Nicosia 8

Nicosia 9 (Ledra Palace crossing)


Points of Interest

The yellow car

The blue tractor
Pachyammos Cemetery

Kykkou Monastery

Kolossi castle

Asomatos

Pyla


Sovereign Base Area's (SBA)
Western SBA (WSBA)
Akrotiri

Melanda beach restaurant

Muntyan's Labyrinth

Westernmost point Western SBA

Asomatos

Eastern SBA (ESBA)
Overall
Pyla
Pergamos

Ormidea

Düzce

Turkish republic of Northern Cyprus (TRNC)

Kokkina

Famagusta (Mağusa)

Varosha (Maraş)


*Border Crossings*

Ledra Street Nicosia

Ledra Palace Nicosia (RoC)
Zahra Sk (TRNC)
Astromerits/Zodhia
Limnitis/Kato Pyrgos
Pergamos
Strovilia

En- and exclaves
Kokkina
Xylotymbou
Dhekelia Power Station

*Oddities and Extremities*
Highest Point of Cyprus (on Mt. Olympus)
North-easternmost point (mainland)
   (Cape Apostolos Andreas)
Westernmost point Western SBA

Tripoints
CYUKUN (no.1)
CYUKUN (no. 4)

Nicosia

Expeditionday 2

Fridayday, september 27th

Thursday september 26th, I arrive in the evening at Larnaca airport, where I met Eva and Steen. We drive to Castelli hotel in Nicosia, check in and went down town where we met Barry and Jesper at bar
'Cheers' in Ledra street.

It's a nice reunion of good friends!

The only devided capital in the world, with a border between the Republic of Cyprus (RoC) and the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus (TRNC), included a UN-controlled bufferzone, in between.

Friday september 27th, I meet Linda and Hans Peter, who were picked up by Steen at night.

After breakfast we leave for a walk through Nicosia. We start east of the checkpoint in Ledrastreet, near Paphos gate and end a long way west of it. The photos tell what we saw during the 20 km. that we walked.

After breakfast I started a little preliminary exploration

Nicosia, bufferzone, barrier, no go, IBRG, border

The 'yellow car'

It's a yellow car and an old door. The sign says so. Jacques Lacarriere had the story of this place in his book "Nicosia - the buffer zone". He said that this car was left there during the war and it became a target for both the turkish and the cypriot army (in the north and in the south).

The UNFICYP then left the car there, as it was used to name the place. The UN guardhouse in that corner was called "the yellow car guardhouse".

The car can be seen from the carpark at Alexiou Komninou street, behind the Greek militarypost.

Yellow car Nicosia Cyprus
Yellow car Nicosia Cyprus
Yellow car Nicosia Cyprus

Groupwalk Nicosia

Nicosia

Bordercrossing Ledrastreet

It's about 11:00 hrs and 31º when we entered Ledrastreet where the footbordercrossing is. We decide to cross and have a drink on TRNC-side of Nicosia.

TRNC Nicosia

Nicosia

After the refreshments we walk back and cross the border again to the Greek Cyprioticside.

Directly at the crossing we turn left and we pass coffeehouse Yiayia Victoria, Ledra St. The bufferzoneborder over their terrac

IBRG, Nicosia, Bufferzone, Greek, Turkish, Cyprus, Cypriotic

Nicosia

The blue tractor

At Tritonusstreet we are lucky. Through a view through the wall we see the sign of the Blue Tractor.

At that moment there is a UN blue beret/helmet check, just at the Blue tractor spot.

The story:

Each side used certain features of the Buffer Zone to demarcate different sectors. One of these landmarks was a blue tractor left behind during the fighting in 1974. After 11 years of negotiating its return, the Greek owner was allowed into the Buffer Zone for 24 hours to recover his property. He had to be alone, he couldn't use any other vehicle and the tractor had to be driven out. After 16 hours of work, the tractor was started and driven out to the Greek side. The UN had to replace the blue tractor which they did with a plastic one purchased from a local toyshop.

IBRG, Nicosia, Bufferzone, Greek, Turkish, Cyprus, Cypriotic

© foto's and tekst left and down ©: Malcolm at [click]

IBRG, Nicosia, Bufferzone, Greek, Turkish, Cyprus, Cypriotic

A blue tractor (not the actual tractor) marking a sectorchange in the Turkish lines and the
6 plastic replacement (purchased red but sprayed blue).

Nicosia

Walking from Tritonusstreet until Ermou street, we pass some barriers as well.

Behind Kadeiras Theodorastreet, at the Bufferzone border, my view is, that it is  like a warzone.

Google translates:
The heroic lady Katina Papadopoulou who kept up the Greek soul and saved her life for the fatherland in the days of the Turkish invasion in the summer of 1974 and in the difficult years that follow Cyprus is in

Gratefull eternal memory

November 2008          Kostas Papakostas

                                 Minister of Defence

Nicosia

From here we walked to Athinasstreet, where we saw Orpheas footballpitch, just at the bufferzoneborder. It looks monitored by UN.

Nicosia

From here our bufferzoneborderwalk stops and we walked among Famagousta Gate and the Liberty monument, finding a nice place for refreshements.

Nicosia

Ledra Palace crossing

Zahra Sk crossing

After being refreshed at Castelli hotel, we started an evening walk to Ledra Palace with the checkpoint out of RoC at Markou Drakoustreet, through the bufferzone to the crossing at Zahra Sk into TRNC.

Here in North Cyprus we had dinner.

IBRG, Cyprus, Kokkina, enclave, exclave, TRNC

Kokkina

Kykkou Monastry

Mt. Olympus (1.950 mtr.

Expeditionday 2

Saturday, september 28th

Trip to the enclave Kokkina

IBRG, Mansoura, UN, UN-05, Cyprus

Kokkina (Greek: Κόκκινα,Turkish: Erenköy)  is a coastal TRNC pene-exclave surrounded by mountains with the Morphou Bay on its northern flank.

Because of the battle of Tillyria (1964), Kokkina is symbolic significance to Cypriots.

In 1976, all Kokkina inhabitants were transferred to Yialousa (Yeni Erenköy). Since than it's a TRNC military base and acces is not possible.

We went to Kokkina by first passing

the border crossing into the UN-bufferzone at Astromeritis (F928), into TRNC at border crossing Zodia, while passing UN station 32.

From here we drove among the coast to Limnitis checkpoint where we left TRNC and entered the UN-bufferzone, passed UN-camp 03. Here we drove to Limnits border crossing (Kato Pyrgos), where we entered Cyprus again.

All the way among the coast we see (observation) posts of Greek - and Turkish Cypriotics and UN.

We stop over at Mansoura at UN-post 05 and opposite a Greek Cypriotic post. Here we are forced to leave, making pictures is not allowed.

We stopped over at the Agios Georgios church in Mosfili, where we enjoyed the view over the mountains and Kokkina. Here we are nearby the UN-bufferzone around the pene-exclave Kokkina.

Kokkina, enclave, TRNC

After making pictures of all we can see we drove to Κοιμητήριο Παχυάμμου
(Pachyammos Cemetery) also nearby the UN-bufferzone, where a Greek Cypriotic base is situated.

Here ends this part of the expedition and we had lunch in Pomos at Kanalli restaurant, at the harbour with a great view all over.

After lunch we went for a visit of the

Μοναστήρι Κύκκου (Kykkou Monastery) on HW E740.


From here we drove to the highest point of Cyprus on Mt. Olypus (1950 mtr.) were a British military observation post is situated.

The day ended with diner in 'The village pub & restaurant' in Kakopetria.

Border crossing

Astromerits/Zodhia

Expeditionday 2

Saturday, september 28th

Border crossing

Limnitis (checkpoint) Limnitis (crossing) (Kato Pyrgos)

Mosfili

Expeditionday 2

Saturday, september 28th

Pachyammos Cemetery

Expeditionday 2

Saturday, september 28th

Lunch at Καναλλι Ψαροταβέρνα

(Kavalli restaurant  ||  Pomos

Expeditionday 2

Saturday, september 28th

Μοναστήρι Κύκκου (Kykkou Monastery)

Paphos forest | Mt. Olympus | HW E 740

Tro¨ødosmountains | 1.318 mtr.

Expeditionday 2

Saturday, september 28th

Highest point Cyprus ↑

Mt. Olympus | 1.950 mtr.

Expeditionday 2

Saturday, september 28th

The highest point of Cyprus is at 1.950 mtr, on Mt. Olympus in the Troödosmountains.

Situated in this ski-area is since 1878  Troödos Station, formerly Royal Air Force Troödos. It is retained with UK RAF military.

Mt. Olympus, highest point Cyprus, RAF Troodos, Akrotiri, IBRG
Mt. Olympus, highest point Cyprus, RAF Troodos, Akrotiri, IBRG

Dinertime

'The village pub & restaurant' Kakopetria

Expeditionday 2

Saturday, september 28th

Before driving 1 hr. back tot Nicosia, we stopped for an excellent diner at
'The village pub & restaurant' in Kakopetria.

The village pub & restaurant, Kakopetria  Mt. Olympus, highest point Cyprus, RAF Troodos, Akrotiri, IBRG

Westernmost point Western SBA

Expeditionday 3

Sunday, september 29th

This day we leave hotel Castelli and we move on to explore the border and bordermarkers near the Westernmost SBA-border.

On HW A6 we try to spot a marker while crossing into SBA, we didn't see.

At the HW crossing A6 and F606, we leave A6 and stop at the border. Here we only found a spot on the asphalt. From here we move on F606, crossing and crossing and spotting on several places border markers.

Crossing A6 / F606

Akrotiri, SBA, WSBA, UK, bordermarker

We're having lunch at Melanda Beach restaurant, where we after lunch the westernmost point border marker of the Western SBA found at the coast, near Muntyan's labyrinth.

From here we drive to Κάστρο Κολοσσίου (Kolossi castle in Kolossi). The castle is almost on the border of RoC and SBA. Walking around we found some bordermarkers.

Next stop is Asomatos, where we also find some border markers, even 1 behind a wall behind new build flats.

Driving to the Pefkos city hotel in Limassol, we stopped just once for the last border marker of the day.

After checking in, we walked into town and found us a nice restaurant.

The village pub & restaurant, Kakopetria  Mt. Olympus, highest point Cyprus, RAF Troodos, Akrotiri, IBRG

Lunchtime

Expeditionday 3

Sunday, september 29th

Melanda beach restaurant

After lunchtime

Expeditionday 3

Sunday, september 29th

Muntyan's Labyrinth

Movie about the labyrinth with at 1:48 a clear view on the Westernmost Western
SBA bordermarker

After lunchtime

Expeditionday 3

Sunday, september 29th

Westernmost point Western SBA
(incl. bordermarker)

After lunch we walk along the coast, pass  Muntyan's labrinth and walk to the border between SBA and RoC.
Even a bordermarker is on the spot!

Kolossi castle

(incl. bordermarkers)
Expeditionday 3

Sunday, september 29th

From the Westernmost point of the Western SBA we drove to Kolossi. On the border there's Kolossi castle and we hope to find some bordermarkers.

Asomatos
Expeditionday 3

Sunday, september 29th

From Kolossi castle we drove to Asomatos to find some bordermarkers between RoC and SBA.

From Asotomos we drove to our hotel in Limassol. But in Trachoni we saw another BM, so we stopped just for the picture.

Dinertime

where did we had diner?
Limassol

Expeditionday 3

Sunday, september 29th

We check in our Pefkos city hotel in Limassol and after refreshment we went out for diner. We found a marvelous place where we enjoined dinner and Keo.

Limassol, IBRG, Bayazet, borders, bordermarkers

Pyla

Pergamos

Xylotymbou

Dhekeleia (enclave)

Expeditionday 4

Monday, september 30th

Pyla (Greek: Πύλα,Turkish: Geçit),

It is one of only four villages located within the United Nations Buffer Zone, the other three being Athienou, Troulloi and Deneia.

Pyla is located in the eastern part of the island, adjacent to the British Sovereign Base Area of Dhekelia. From a legal point of view, it is administered as all other areas controlled by the government of the Republic of Cyprus, but policed by UN peacekeepers.[2]

The village is special in the respect that it is the only settlement in Cyprus still inhabited by both its original Greek Cypriot and Turkish Cypriot inhabitants, who live peacefully together in the village!

First stop we made at entering the bufferzone, was at the sign entering the bufferzone,second stop was in the middel of Pyla, near UN-post 129.

IBRG, Pyla, UN, UN-129, Cyprus

From Pyla we drove further by the mainroad. At the point leaving the bufferzone we parked the van at a house and investigated the bordermarker among the street. from here we had a great view on a TRNC observationpost.

A lady came along and start explaining us how the border is situated. We parked the car in front of her house, that acctually is devided by the border.

She also showed us a BM in her backyard and showed us the way to a former observation post uphill.

We thanked her and went up that hill. We found the former post and found, after inspecting that hill, over 11 BM's, almost all in 1 view.

From here we drove back and had lunch in restaurant 'Platia bar' in Pyla. I suggest to find the Vip's names at the picture of the wall (see down).

From here Steen brought us at the border of Pergamos. Unfortunally we had to say goodbye to HP and Linda. They had to work again and were brought to the airport by Steen.

Eva, Barry, Jesper and I first crossed the SBA border (out) and TRNC border in. Here we explored the border and found interesting BM's.

After Steen was back, we joined him and drove to Xylotymbou, an ToC enclave surrounded by the Eastern SBA of Dhekelia. Here we discovered a hidden BM.

IBRG, Pyla, UN, UN-129, Cyprus
Kokkina, enclave, TRNC

From Xylotymbou we drove to the RoC powerplant enclave of Dhekelia and the RoC enclave, opposite of the UK HW B3.

Look at the map and see the small recess, at B3 in the middle. There is a high-voltage mast here. It is amazing to see that years before the mast was placed, the boundary determination already took this into account.

From here we moved on to the tripoint ESBA, RoC, Bufferzone (CYUKUN), on the map left, no. 4 (tnx Barry 4 the map, tnx Jesper for finding out).

Afterwards it was time to drive to Famagusta and searched for Novel centre point hotel, where we after, checking in and refreshment, joint each other to find a restaurant. We found it at only 600 mtr. walking in Gazimağusa, Arshit Cafe bar.

After a good meal we had a nightcap at the pool of the hotel.

Pyla

Expeditionday 4

Monday, september 30th

Pergamos

Expeditionday 4

Monday, september 30th

IBRG, borders, Cyprus, Pergamos, ESBA, UN-bufferzone

As we saw, we did left the UN-bufferzone on the road (where the 'neighbour' informed us). There we entered the Eastern SBA. To enter Pergamos, we first had to leave ESBA area and enter TRNC. We did this at the bordercrossing of Pergamos, adjacent we explored the border at Pergamos.

At the parkingplace at the border we said goodbye to HP and Linda. It was great to meet you, hope to meet you at next expedition!

IBRG, borders, Cyprus, Pergamos, ESBA, UN-bufferzone
IBRG, borders, Cyprus, Pergamos, ESBA, UN-bufferzone

Xylotymbou

Expeditionday 4

Monday, september 30th

After Steen picked us up, we drove to Xylotymbou which is one of the four enclaves surrounded by the Eastern Sovereign Base Area of Akrotiri and Dhekelia. The others are the village of Ormidhia and two separate parts of Dhekelia Power Station.

It is administered by the internationally recognized government of Cyprus (RoC).

Until 1917, Xylotymbou belonged administratively to Famagusta District and since then it belongs in Larnaca District. It is located in the middle of Makrasyka, Achna, Ormidia, Dhekelia, Pyla, and Pergamos.

Until 1821, there were no residents. The Hadjiyiorkis was one of the first inhabitants of the village. When he was married in 1840, the village had only seven houses.

IBRG, Cyprus, borders, Xylotymbou, bordermarkers

Dhekelia Powerplant c.a.

Expeditionday 4

Monday, september 30th

From Xylotymvou, next stop is the line between the enclaves of Dhekelia Powerstation and opposite of UK HW B3, the enclave EAC-settlement.

It's rather odd to see that 2 enclaves are devided just by a road, that is UK territory.

Also odd to see that a specific spot already was signed in as a protrusion in the border, however it took years to place here an electric tower.

However odd, also nice to research.

IBRG, borders, Cyprus, Dhekalia, enclaves, exclaves, powerplant

Ormidea

Expeditionday 4

Monday, september 30th

From Dhekelia powerplant we drove to a bordercorner at HW 3 nearby Ormedia.

Here we found a BM and after pictureizing this, we drove to tripoint nr. 4 on the map, meanwhile spotting a lot of bordermarkers, TRNC obs. posts and UN-post 103.

Meanwhile we pass the abonned town Dücze, where we had a view on the Greek church Ιερός Ναός Αγίας Μαρίνας.

IBRG, borders, Cyprus, Dhekalia, enclaves, exclaves, powerplant

Düzce

Expeditionday 4

Monday, september 30th

From Ormidea we drove on HW 303 heading up for Famagusta, but first we liked to stop at the tripoint UN-Bufferzone- ESBA-RoC.

Driving this road we do spot a lot of bordermarkers and TRNC obs. post. Also we pass UN-post 139.
The first signe we see is quit clear.

IBRG, borders, Cyprus, Dhekalia, enclaves, exclaves, powerplant

Tripoint

ESBA-RoC-UN
(CYUKUN)

Expeditionday 4

Monday, september 30th

From HW 303 among Düzce we drove to the tripoint, located as pointed on the map. As tripoint there was absolutly nothing to see, so the only pics are from around and a printscreen that shows I am exactly standing on the tripoint.

As you see on the map, there's another tripoint closeby. We tried to reach that, but signs and a TRNC obs. post were in our way.

IBRG, borders, Cyprus, Dhekalia, enclaves, exclaves, powerplant

On Cyprus there are now 5 tripoints to be found, depending if we see all entities that claim jurisdiction as an entity with borders.

Two of those tripoints we visited during Cybex-24, no. 1 and no. 4.

IBRG, borders, Cyprus, bordermarker, tripoints, TRNC, RoC, SBA, UN, UN-bufferzone
IBRG, borders, Cyprus, bordermarker, tripoints, TRNC, RoC, SBA, UN, UN-bufferzone

Hotel and dinertime

Expeditionday 4

Monday, september 30th

From the tripoint we went to the Novel centre point hotel in Famagusta. After check in and refreshment we found dinner after only 600 mtr. walking in Gazimağusa str, @ 'Arshit Cafe bar'.

IBRG, border, Famagusta, Varosha, Maraş

After breakfast we start the day with a visit of the abandoned city of Varosha. The first glimp of it we stopped over and made some pictures.

A man was not pleased, wanted our SD-cards and started calling. We drove to the 'main entrance' of Varosha.

The pictures will tell the story of the city, that was before 1974, a modern tourist area. The Greek Cypriot inhabitants fled during the Turkish invasion of Cyprus in 1974, when the city of Famagusta came under Turkish control, and it has remained abandoned ever since.

In 1984 a United Nations resolution called for the handover of the city to UN control and said that only the original inhabitants, who were forced out, could resettle in the town.

Since october 6th, 2020 a specific part of Varosha is opend for people. It felt me, if I was a disastertourist in a ghosttown.

Famagusta (Mağusa)

Varosha (Maraş),
the abandoned city

Cape Apostolos Andreas

the north-easternmost point of Cyprus

Expeditionday 5

Tuesday, october 1st

Varosha (Maraş),
the abandoned city

Expeditionday 5

Tuesday, october 1st

Cape Apostolos Andreas
Northernmost and Easternmost point
(North-easternmost point)
of Cyprus

Expeditionday 5

Tuesday, october 1st

Famagusta (Mağusa)
'The old town'

Expeditionday 5

Tuesday, october 1st

From the North-eastenmost point at
Cape Apostolos Andreas, we drove back to our hotel in Famagusta.

After refreshment we decided to go by cab to the old town for dinner. By ordering a cab they didn't (want to) understood well that we are with five and want a cabvan. Two cabs arrives at the hotel, wanting us to be splitted up for transport to the old town (and pay 2 x the cab).

Than Ramadan shows up, driving a Mercedes Vito, for passengers. He brings us for <€15,00 to the old town, where we had a more than great meal.

After dinner, we called him and he brought us for the same amount back to the hotel.
Great guy!

Leaving Famagusta (Mağusa)

bordercrossing Strovilia (quite a story)
stops at the road and HW E303 & at
Tripoint CYUKUN UN-post 130 HW A3,

(airport and city of) Larnaca


Expeditionday 6

Wednesday, october 2st

End of expedition, time to sniff tears

Mixed feelings! Today ends the expedition. We start with breakfast in Famagusta @ 07:00 hr.

@ 08:00 we leave Famagusta to drop off Jesper and Barry @Larnaca airport.

Steen, Eva and I have the same flight at 14:30 hrs. to Belgrado and continue after the drop off for a quick visit of Larnaca.

We do some shopping, have a drink at sea and deliver the van. There's a lot of activity on the airport with Israelian ppl, lots of heavy armed policemen as well. There's something going on in the world at only 150 km from here.

At least we all made it to the gate and were allowed to board.

On Belgrade we missed each other, I had to pass security again for entering departing gate C2, Steen and Eva didn't and were waiting at gate C6.

Here we had a kiss and said goodbye.

At C2 it started uncomfortable, groundpersonal wasn't equipped. All passengers were able to board, but, ........ .
this after half an hour past boarding time.

Bordercrossing Strovilia
(quite a story)


Expeditionday 6
wednesday, october 2st

Just outside Famagusta (Mağusa), we left TRNC at the bordercrossingpoint of

Strovilia.

After leaving TRNC, all by car, Barry and I left the car and got walking into ESBA, with our camera's. Signs says that it is not allowed to make pictures.

That sign 'No photograpy'
actually means that those signs must be pictuarized?

About 1,5 km. after the crossing we were stopped by SBA-police, asking us who made pictures. All ID's and my camera where taken into the police office, where I was friendly asked to join.

It took about 10 mins. inside to get all free and to be allowed to continue our way. Tnx SBA-police!